Recently, I was asked to curate and lead a wine tasting for a group of friends, most of whom are alumni of the small Virginia liberal arts college from which I am proud to have graduated. When the idea was initially posed, a theme was discussed which brought me dread and consternation: New York state wines. Having tasted less than a dozen (and most of those I have tasted having been made by a single producer), I could not lean on personal experience. Worse, I knew less about New York wine than just about any other wine region of note. Thus, a solution presented itself: I would spend the next few weeks tasting a dozen or so wines produced here in the Empire State, build a knowledge base both from an experiential and academic perspective, and put together a tasting.
Ah, yes. I almost forgot the other problem: I had no idea how to curate and lead a wine tasting. Learn by doing, I say, and off I went.
Much to my longsuffering wife’s chagrin, I launched myself into the wines of my adoptive home. New York does some things surprisingly well, and what it doesn’t do well, it (for the most part) doesn’t do at all, which is to the great credit of New York’s vignerons. So what does New York do well? Stocky, vigorous, cold-climate wines with acidity and floral tones: riesling, gewürztraminer, cabernet franc, pinot blanc, and the like. This makes sense, considering that New York’s most successful wineries are in the Finger Lakes region and on the North Fork of Long Island, where the winters are rough and the winds unforgiving.
For those interested in learning more about the wines of New York, I recommend Wine for Normal People’s excellent podcast episodes on the subject (Eps. 115, 138-39, 296-297, 301-02, 322) and the sections of The Wine Bible (Karen MacNeil) and Wine Folly (Madeline Puckette) which discuss it.
But now, without further ado, these are the wines I selected for the tasting, along with my tasting notes. I chose them generally for their typicity with regard to the varietal's classic presentation and for being solid though accessible examples of what New York's climate will create. Also, I made it a point to spend no more than $25 per bottle for this tasting, and all bottles were purchased in Long Island City (Queens) or lower Manhattan.
Ravines Wine Cellars - Estate Grown Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes, 2021)
The opening salvo was this bright, clean gewürztraminer. As is typical for this varietal, aromas of tropical fruit (lychee, mango), Asian pear, and citrus (lime zest) explode out of the glass. On the palate, notes of honey and the unmistakable imprint of the limestone soils in which it is grown. Big acidity, but integrated and balanced, not puckering. A touch of spice (maybe white pepper?) on the finish.
Lieb Cellars - Estate Pinot Blanc (North Fork of Long Island, 2021)
This pinot blanc (a point mutation of pinot noir) is bracing and saline. Aromas of citrus (meyer lemon) and sea air are coaxed forward with a little swirling. On the palate, initially the wine is somewhat shy, but opens into pear, jasmine flower, and stone fruit (peach, tangerine). Almond and minerality (graphite) on the finish.
Vinifera Wine Cellars - Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes, 2021)
This was the star of the show, frankly (I'm so sorry, but I couldn't resist the pun). An eruption of white flowers, lemon, lime zest, wet gravel, and the faintest hint of petroleum on the nose. Palate opens with sharp citrus acidity and green apple. Slight touch of honeyed sweetness on the long, velvety finish. Selected chiefly for the historical importance of Dr. Frank in the story of New York wine (he was the first to successfully plant vitis vinifera in New York state), this ended up being my favorite NY wine and the clear favorite among those present for the tasting.
Channing Daughters Winery - Rosato di Cabernet Franc (North Fork of Long Island, 2021)
Chosen to illustrate the versatility of the cabernet franc grape, this pale salmon rosé is delicate but insistent. Relatively simple, the nose opens with rose petal and strawberry. Pink peppercorn, raspberry, red cherry, and faint earthy notes typical of cabernet franc are flush with bright acidity and a kiss of orange blossom.
Wölffer Estate Vineyard - Estate Cabernet Franc (North Fork of Long Island, 2019)
I wanted to include a Wölffer Estate wine, but not their ubiquitous Summer in a Bottle rosé, which is quite good in its own right. I stumbled across this cab franc and was blown away by how much it opened up after an hour in the decanter. The nose features fruit leather and prune, anise, soil, and sandalwood. On the palate, blueberry, vanilla, baking spice, fig, and pronounced pyrazines (green bell pepper, peppercorn) combine to form a rich, full-bodied and versatile wine. This one will get better with age, and has grippy tannin that softens with aeration. Just enough acid to cut through the earthiness. Not flabby like most American cab franc.
What should we taste next? And if you're interested in joining us in the future, let me know!
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